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ENTERTAINMENT: DINING
Scioto Ribber slow-cooking up something special
PORTSMOUTH, Ohio -- The Scioto Ribber is something of a local landmark in downtown Portsmouth.
The restaurant/pub started in 1978 when owner Steven Mault purchased Henry's Cafe with the intent of opening up a pub. Already known for preparing barbecue in his backyard, Mault began preparing ribs on Monday evenings for patrons to munch on during football games.
As word of Mault's talent for barbecue spread there was demand for the ribs to be served every night of the week. Eventually the menu was expanded to include barbecue chicken, fried fish and steak. Today the restaurant is owned and operated by Steven Mault's son, Darren.
"We slow-cook everything, and we keep our sauce on the side for dipping," Darren Mault said. "It's a sweet tomato-based, peppery sauce that I'm not sure what you would compare it to. My father came up with all of these recipes with my mother. We sell quite a bit of everything on the menu. Ribs and steak are still the top sellers, but chicken has become more popular with the times."
The restaurant is something of a museum for the town. Pictures of past Cincinnati Bengals players line the wall near the bar. In the back of the restaurant is a wall dedicated to memorabilia of the Portsmouth Spartans, a professional football team that represented the city during the Depression era for three years before moving to Detroit and changing its name to the Lions.
The Scioto Ribber's famous ribs are actually a unique cut of meat of Steven Mault's own invention. Portions range in price from $8.45 for a "petite" one-piece dinner to $19 for a large four-piece rib dinner. Steaks are available in the choice of a Ribeye or New York Strip cut. A 16-ounce small steak goes for $20.95, while a 32-ounce large steak is available for $31. Chicken ranges in price from $5.70 for a 1/4 dark meat meal to $11.70 for a 1/2 chicken white meat meal.
There is also an assortment of sandwich platters, including pulled pork ranging in price from $5.50 to $5.95.
"My dad had his first smoker back in 1976 in our backyard," Mault said. "He brought it down here, and we soon needed a larger one and then another. We started to branch out into catering, so we became able to do large-scale orders. We can do as many as 600 to 700 ribs in a day."
The Ribber is unique in that it's one of only a handful of bars in the area that brews its own beer. Steven Mault owns the Portsmouth Brewing Company on 2nd Street, which also sells pizzas.
"My brother was stationed in Germany, and he started brewing beer when he came back from the Army," Steven Mault said. "Later when I was in the Air Force, I was stationed in Germany, and when I came back I couldn't drink American beer anymore. So we got together and started making our own beers. Then in 1996 the brewery went for sale and we decided to remodel it and put in a microbrewery. We started with a Pilsner beer because that's the standard American-style lager that people have been drinking since prohibition. Once I perfected the Portsmouth Pilsner, I branched out into doing specialty beers which we serve seasonally. I wanted to make something original from Ohio, so I brought in some maple syrup from Adams County to make a maple brown ale."
The Scioto Ribber is located at 1026 Gallia St., in Portsmouth. It is open from noon to 9 p.m. Sunday, from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday and from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Cash and all major credit cards are accepted.
For a full menu, catering options and more information visit www.sciotoribber.com .To place a take-out order, call 740-353-9329.
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