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Thomas Wilson: French have fat-filled diet, yet avoid obesity

January 10, 2009 @ 10:10 PM

I would like to take issue with the suggested "tips for recipe makeovers" as described in "Get Healthy" in your Dec. 7 newspaper that, in general, recommends replacing rich organic natural foods with substitutes such as margarine, skim milk and other "fat-free" items. Many of the "fat-free" alternatives found on grocery store shelves contain as substitutes sugars or guar gum and other peculiar items.

Although I am not a nutritionist, I lived in France for one year where there are no such aversions to meals containing fats. What I saw was a country where obesity is nearly nonexistent. Imagine that.

In French cuisine, oftentimes rich sauces accompany the entrée. There is a French saying to the effect that sauces make the meal. Such sauces typically include butter, cream, wine or cheese. I subsequently became converted to the idea that contrary to in-vogue American nutritional guidelines, one can have both a wonderful dining experience as well as a very healthy one.

In French meals, the portion sizes are modest (the average American would say minuscule even), there can be multiple courses, each served on a separate plate (I think the French must wash more plates than anyone), red wine is consumed, and few dinners are complete without a cheese tray containing a flavorful Roquefort, Reblochon, Gruyère or a Chèvre for "dessert."

I suspect that when one foregoes the pleasures of rich-tasting foods at the table, as advocated in your article, one will just seek other treats throughout the day to compensate. Unfortunately in our society, such treats are more often than not sugar-laden.

Of course, a balance needs to be maintained. French breakfasts usually consist of coffee, bread and jam only. Another aspect of French cuisine that I noticed is that to eat with one's fingers is quite rare and frowned upon. I suppose the use of silverware enforces a slower and more relaxed experience amenable to good conversation.

There are other factors that contribute to the missing obesity epidemic in France, no doubt, such as much more reliance upon walking and the use of mass transportation as opposed to our cars.

In summary, I doubt that Julia Child would have agreed with your "Get Healthy" guidelines. Anyway, some food for thought.

Thomas Wilson is a professor of physics at Marshall University.